Pierre Reboul, following a long professional journey, opened his own restaurant in November of 2007, inaugurating this locale in the heart of the city. The formula is working nicely. The reason is simple: he is a remarkable professional.
He knows all the avant-garde techniques, employing them both continuously and mathematically. He has mastered the jellies, airs, spheres, liquid nitrogen… presenting a technical and technological cuisine. As a result, the concepts that support the work also correspond with each other. Imaginative, researched, sophisticated formulas articulated, in many cases, with a wide array of elements employing different spaces. It is not unusual to find up to three different plates in a single course, expressing a certain disintegration of the elements within a single idea. This is a particular and fairly complicated vision of avant-garde cuisine–an imprint that manifests itself in the proliferation of components and the originality in which they are combined. The results are unusual contemporary proposals marked by their distinctness, without profiling a specific style. That is the goal this author should be aiming for, seasoning his work with irony, even subtle provocation in some of his dishes. Dishes that boast exceptional product served in abundance. Nobility and generosity, beyond that of just the product; qualities that are patent throughout the immense effort that involves the tasting menu. The guest has no choice but to rediscover themselves in the knowledge, the savoir-faire and the delivery of Pierre Reboul–a man that goes into great detail with powerful, sometimes brilliant contrasts, always tempered, refined and balanced.
The exuberance that is embodied by each construction gives one faith in the crispy Brittany lobster with tomato and fresh goat cheese jellies, basil puree and a “mille-feuille” that is raised over a crustacean vinaigrette, completing the scenery: a powder, a water, a few drops of sauce, an ice-blended concoction… all made from tomato: sublime. Unsurpassably lucid and meticulous, the frog legs: a circular crust of bread hides a succulent ragù of deboned meat marvelously perfumed with garlic, covered by an infinity of parsley caviar balls. In a different space of the plate, a leg still with its bone, sautéed with a gel made from the same herb, and at a different time, as a culmination of the dish, an irreproachable Pastis sorbet. Rapturous. On a less engaging note but still with fashionable touches, the beautiful Norway lobster over potato fondant, olives, shellfish juices with vanilla and lemon jelly and foam. The revolutionary spirit appears again with the can of preserves containing a cream of foie gras at the bottom topped with a marinated sardine and, as complements, a few pieces of stewed apple and a passion fruit air. The total complicity of the guest is required in the rather polished quail hamburger, which must be occasionally dressed using a syringe containing a very peppery juice of the same bird, finished with a colossal gherkin sorbet. And splendor is found with the peach macaron, which carries the stamp of this enthusiastic chef.
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France
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