El Bulli

After so many years spent exalting his work, we have run out of grandiloquent words for Ferran Adrià. His recognition has passed from Spain on to the world, and from the world into posterity. He is the greatest in history. Sorry, the undisputedly greatest–the greatest culinary genius of all time. Arguably neither Carême nor Escoffier, nor anyone else for that matter, has created so many dishes, dictated such a broad-reaching doctrine, had so much influence on their colleagues… no one has been so decisive in promoting such a magnificent, qualitative leap in cuisine. And, though it may seem incredible, his talent continues to grow with each passing year to such a point that it seems the best is still yet to come. Every exercise exceeds all human and divine parameters. This year, once again, the artist has succeeded in astonishing us, astounding us more profoundly and better than ever, with progressive concepts and techniques in keeping with his revolutionary line. It is a progression that is manifest both in creativity as well as virtuosity, in perfection as well as imagination.
There have been distinct periods which have marked his work: surf and turf, foams, deconstructions, hot jellies, jellies, airs, lyophilizations, spheres… he is practically a computer in regards to the sheer quantity he has invented and flavors he has captured. He takes concepts and techniques from our culinary patrimony and projects them with superior inspiration into the future, in infinitely wise creations. There is so much, and in such great quantity, that it is unthinkable to try and guess where the next dish is going take you.
Ferran is in a permanent state of change. His dishes today no longer express the brazen provocation of yesteryear. He has abandoned the eccentric, radical side of his work. He has sensibly diminished the exoticism and left only the most minimal expression of his Japanese inspiration. We stand before a more plural, multiple era in his work, more Adrià… underlining the essence, impact and the CREATOR, making everything else seem secondary. However, the innate values of this culinary prodigy still remain, transmitting pure, immaculate flavors in his supremely exquisite manner; surprising with unexpected displays of physical, chemical and nuclear preparations; philosophizing, painting… pure genius. In this context, it would be absurd to recommend certain dishes, since those titles will undoubtedly be off the menu the next chance you might have to visit the restaurant (more than 100 creations or variations are presented every year). In any case, always go with the intention of trying the melon caviar; the olives; honey/flowers/pistachios; the sea (el mar); seaweed salad; tonic soup with cucumbers and roses; lamb brains in their juices… so many astounding dishes, certifying that Adrià’s cuisine has never been so imaginative and so perfect. As for the 2007 creations, among those that most stood out were the mango leaves and tagete flower, the “airban” of Parmigiano-Reggiano, the meringue/profiterole of beet and yoghurt, the LYO of citrus fruits, the tuna medallion in tempura with caviar, the mackerel sweetbreads with egg yolk and sesame oil caviar, the dacquoise of green pineapple and pine nuts, the salt-cured anchovies with Joselito cured ham jelly and yoghurt yuba, the razor clams with laurencia (seaweed), the polenta-coffee gnocchi, the yuba with saffron and daisies, the kalix-stuffed sea cucumbers with seaweed and salicornia empanadilla (turnover)… In short, the current proposal is bursting with fruits, flowers, nuts… paying homage to seaweeds and the depths of the sea, devising sweet and acidic counterpoints–the dried airs, the lyophilizations, the crispy airs, the stuffed rinds with creams or “liquids”, the sculptural shapes… a more infinite work than ever.
Attaining such lofty goals, it would be only right to give him a 10. Yes, a 10. And if we don’t, it’s not because he doesn’t deserve it but rather out of professional modesty–professional modesty and because our philosophy requires us to believe that God doesn’t exist and that perfection and fantasy are without limits.
In light of our recent visit, the only thing we can be sure of is that tomorrow El Bulli will be more El Bulli than ever.