Guggenheim Bilbao

If a year ago we said that Josean Martinez Alija had gone a tad bit radical, marginalizing his work from the general tastes, today we must clarify that though he may still be in the margin of commercial criteria, he has greatly tempered his dishes, always within the elitism that distinguishes him. He continues to have radical formulas, as is the case with the melon with mint, kefir and grapefruit air, that seems to be inspired by tzatziki, powerfully contrasted, but in general, the proposals, still breaking from the norms, are more friendly and harmonious. Strong sensations, yes, but elegant, silky and balanced. Dishes with impact, absolutely, surprising in the intellectuality, maturity, wisdom and serenity that encompass them. This is one of the chefs with the most talent in the international panorama. A creator who is capable of dictating a message that is clearly different from that seen anywhere else in the gastronomic universe. A minimalist genius that focuses on nature and the purity therein.
In our last visit we remarked that only a half dozen of the proposals survived from last year, among which we returned to try the peeled baby beans sautéed with Joselito ham, swimming in liquified snap peas perfumed with basil, the raw char-grilled peas over egg yolk with hints of vanilla and the flame-broiled cod with sopako bread cream and a touch of vinegar, which were all even more perfect than we remembered.
The most recent batch of proposals is brimming with remarkable creations, especially the roasted eggplant threads with licorice adorned with an olive oil and yoghurt emulsion, two brilliant additions that strengthen and bring out the texture and flavor of the eggplant. Another wild creation: the clairvoyant vegetable foie gras (a quarter of a steamed avocado) perfumed with a beautiful acidulated baby squid broth with cilantro fragrances. An unprecedented manner of understanding pasta: tender casarecce impregnated with a gelatinous sauce of Anglet pepper. Absolute delicacy: fresh baby squid steamed with seaweed, hot and raw, with red onion and cayenne pepper. Outright virtuosity: red bream with a sublime broth of wild garlic, reminiscent of fried vegetables, with capers and lemon verbena. The desserts were in keeping with the rest of the proposals, particularly the black olive ashes over aromatic herb casein and licorice ice cream. Ladies and Gentlemen, this is ART. And to leave no doubt, this is the finest vegetable cuisine in the world.