Oud Sluis

Ostra pochada con clorofila y parmesano
Sergio Herman
Country: Holland
City: 4524 EA Sluis
Address: Beestenmark, 2
(+31) 0117 461269
Closed: Mondays, Tuesdays, 1 week in April, 2 weeks in June and October and the last week in December
Price: 65/110 €
Tasting menu::

Sergio Herman is one of the most innately talented chefs we have come across in the last three decades. He is there, at the summit, elbow to elbow with all those who have made recent history. In his direct, swift trajectory to glory, he already finds himself among the five great new chefs, which at the tender age of thirty, are presenting the world with the freshest, new intelligent cuisine on the planet: Quique Dacosta, Massimiliano Alajmo, Andoni Luis Aduriz and Pascal Barbot. We find ourselves before a privileged mind and sensibility, offering flavors of the new generation, conveying a completely different message from before and, moreover, one that is without references. Autodidactic, Sergio transmits immaculate sensations through his work, proposing light formulas that exude imagination, radiate beauty and never cease to astound the guests. The flavors, as exciting as they appear to be, enchant us with their elegance and harmony, lending themselves to complexity without confrontation. The rupture is not present in the flavors, but rather in the avant-garde manner of expression. This break from the norm, accentuated by astonishingly creative undertones with countless virtues, among which we must highlight the chef’s proverbial good taste, has a final challenge to overcome: to avoid a certain tendency towards mannerism and the denaturalizing of some of the more stellar products (oysters, razor clams, Norway lobster, etc.) that are frequently served chopped. If he is capable of concretizing his message and conveying it in a shaper manner, his already remarkable ranking, which is most certainly deserved, could see itself increasing in the future. Everything seems to indicate that he is heading in that direction: year after year his progression is manifest – art, effort and self-criticism abounds in his work. All in due time, Sergio. Another immense merit of this establishment: the menu changes constantly, which means that the dishes we describe will almost assuredly be off the menu at the time of your visit. What you will find are the ingredients that serve as a foundation in the chef’s work, those products that reassert themselves time and time again in new constructions: jets d’houblon, oysters, Norway lobster, lobster, turbot, squab… donning new robes, but with the same original and perfect impact as always. The frozen pastille of wasabi, sake and lime is the first creation called upon to astonish the guests. Afterwards, a succession of appetizers: pumpkin wafer with gorgonzola ice cream, foie gras and green apple sphere… cosmopolitan vanguard. Among the dishes, a Baroque gastronomic wonder: crab served over brioche with oyster emulsion (in gelatinized balls made with liquid nitrogen), caviar, avocado cream, citrus… ; a real daring. Another brilliant proposal bursting with original nuances: Norway lobster tartar with herbs, yuzu and virgin olive oil pastille. Magnanimous in their size, freshness and accompaniments: the oysters, poached in their water served over chlorophyll with Parmesan cream. Majestic for its quality, doneness and resolution, the turbot with marinated scallops, endives, pumpkin, apple and, among other details, a fascinating air of toasted butter. The lacquered squab with truffle is truly virtuosic, served with cabbage, celeriac puree, potato sphere… yet again, grandiose culinary architecture. And from there we arrive at the desserts, which confirm the excellence of the house. Few chefs have so resoundingly awoken our interest and admiration. We must keep our eyes and palates tuned to the future work of this artist.