La Sucursal

Tartar de buey con liliaceas
Jorge Bretón
Country: Spain
City: 46003 Valencia
Address: Guillén de Castro, 118.
(+34) 963746665
Closed: Saturdays midday, Sundays, 15 days during Easter week and again in August
Price: 60/75 €
Tasting menu:: 45/70 €

Javier and Manoli Salvador have seen their efforts and professionalism repaid with extraordinary success, which should come as no surprise considering the phenomenal way which they excel in every area: a charming location, diligent and pleasant service, and serious attention to details. In short, this is an exclusive environment accompanied by distinguished cuisine that is sensible, solid and effective. The young chef Jorge Bretón is in charge of transmitting the feeling of the establishment, which is modern, essential haute cuisine with endearing flavors and lasting references. He recreates historical tones in his cuisine, without being shrill. Sensitivity is ever-present in each expression. An example: the oyster wrapped in truffle gelatin with celery puree, fried artichokes and arugula – the ingredients, preparation and balance are impeccable. Virtuosic ability and common sense are repeated here time and again: polenta covered with black truffle and egg yolk. Inspiration and finesse that confirm a style: ribbons of squid with a ball of meat and pig’s feet in its juices and toffee of peas. Both flesh and art are honored by the pork jowl with trinxat (cabbage, potato and bacon) and Norway lobster tail, immaculate elements superimposed that come accompanied by a “lentil” salad, tiny “grains” that taste surprisingly of beef consommé. Distinction remains patent with the pancetta wrapped lobster and peas with mint and chanterelles. Mental precision, learned subtlety, reflective imagination, aesthetic sensibility and superb product: cod filet. Incredible quality! Outstanding preparation! With a gelatinous infusion of chard, confited tomato, and an assortment of spring leaves… beauty. The execution of the twice-cooked Mallard duck with sweet and sour sauce of the palmiped and pears is sterling. The rice with beans and turnips is succulent and light; a dish to enjoy on several occasions… And for the cherry on top: ganache of hot chocolate with cherry sorbet. The clientele is modern, cultured and classy, in perfect harmony with the space, and would not stand for being deprived of the best: the mi-cuit foie gras with homemade brioche toast and the honeyed rice of razor shell clams and normal clams topped with a thin octopus carpaccio and exciting counterpoints of ginger and lemon. Located in the Valencian Modern Art Institute (IVAM). How appropriate.