Gelatinous Dove And Squab Salad With Smoked Chestnuts, Mushrooms And Beet Vin

Ensalada gelatinosa de paloma y pichón, con castañas ahumadas, hongos y vinagret
Martín Berasategui
Chef: Martín Berasategui
Country: España
City: 20160 Lasarte (Guipúzcoa)
Address: Loidi, 4
(+34) 943366471

Martín Berasategui loves being a perfectionist. He is a reformer that went so far as to reform himself. It is perhaps one of the aspects that best define his work: he does not shy away from this characteristic of himself, far from it. He is proliferate and eclectic, diverse and complex, and welcomes these qualities with open arms. In the last few years alone he has consecrated dozens of recipes. The number of Dishes of the Year that he has received from the Lo Mejor de la Gastronomía guide is sufficient testimony: 10, among which his caramelized mille-feuille of smoked eel, foie gras and apple and his warm vegetable marrow salad with lobster, razor-shell clams, cockles, lettuce cream and iodized yolk are here for all of posterity. If we had to choose a “primus inter pares”, this latter would certainly be the one.
Martín is now reorienting himself using his greatest success as his inspiration. The same structure is used in this dish: flat integrity in a square form. The vegetables and shellfish are replaced by autumnal meats, dove – or another type of fowl depending on what can be found in the marketplace –, with chestnuts, mushrooms, truffle vinaigrette and, of course, herbs, sprouts and flowers. The result is beautiful, immaculate, precious, with endless nuances and very refined. Curiously enough, it can cause the guest to wonder whether it is a salad in the form of a game dish they are enjoying or a meat dish with marvelously refreshing attributes. A wonderful preservation of identity and gastronomic memory.

The Recipe

Gelatinous Dove And Squab Salad With Smoked Chestnuts, Mushrooms And Beet Vinaigrette With Truffle


Fowl leg stock

  • 1 kg Iberian pig bones
  • 3.5 kg squab carcasses
  • 1.5 kg chicken legs, cleaned
  • 2 carrots, chopped
  • 2 onions, chopped
  • 1 celery branch, chopped
  • 1 small leek, chopped
  • 25 g ginger
  • 25 g rock salt
  • 500 g mushroom stems
  • 200 g beets, liquified


Clean and cut the nails and legs of the chicken. Blanche for three minutes and cool. Place 10 liters of water in a pot, add all the ingredients and bring to a boil. Once boiling, turn down the heat and leave to cook for 7-8 hours at #4 setting on an induction cooker. Pass through a sieve, skim the fat and add the liquified beets. Clarify and set aside in the walk-in.


The clarified stock

  • 1 carrot
  • 1 leek, green part only
  • 1 celery branch
  • 50 g parsley stems
  • 350 g skinned chicken breast
  • 500 g egg white
  • 2 g rock salt
  • 10 black peppercorns


Finely chop the vegetables, parsley and chicken. Beat the egg whites and add the vegetables, chicken and seasonings. Add this mixture to the stock when it is boiling, stirring constantly for 1-2 minutes. Heat on the induction cooker at #2 setting for 1 hour. Skim the fat and strain through a sieve.


Dove breasts

  • 10 doves
  • oil
  • salt


Clean the doves and leave them to sit in the walk-in for at least 1 week. After this time, clean again and when ready to serve, brown the doves whole. Finish the process on a baking tray with grids. Bake at 200ºC for 3-4 minutes. Remove from the oven and let sit for 5 minutes. Before assembly, remove the breasts and slice into filets.


Dove mousse

  • 350 g dove leg meat
  • 100 g fresh foie gras
  • 200 g dove livers
  • salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 5 g sugar
  • 15 g cider liqueur (aguardiente)
  • olive oil
  • 150 whipping cream


Place the meat of the dove and squab legs in a bowl along with the raw foie-gras, the dove livers, salt, pepper, sugar and cider aguardiente and marinate for 12 hours.The next day, sauté this mixture over high heat in a non-stick pan with olive oil for 3 minutes. Remove from heat, place on a tray and leave to cool. Once cooled, blend until obtaining a fine, uniform mixture. Press through a sieve using a small bowl to force the mixture out, leaving only the fibers behind.Add the whipping cream in two or three intervals, stirring very carefully. Adjust the salt and leave to set in the walk-in for at least two hours.


Truffle-beet vinaigrette

  • 80 g truffle
  • 60 g Artajo olive oil
  • 15 g Sherry vinegar
  • 5.5 g Savora mustard
  • 50 g shallots, finely chopped
  • 3 g chervil, finely chopped
  • 3 g parsley, finely chopped
  • 30 g raw beets, chopped into 1 mm cubes
  • 10 g chives, chopped


Combine all the ingredients except for the vinegar and marinate for 12 hours. Add the vinegar just before serving.


Mushroom and chestnut slices

  • 1 jar of roasted chestnuts
  • 1 kg fresh small mushrooms


Using a metal mandolin slicer, cut the mushrooms and roasted chestnuts into small slices just before serving and assemble (2 g per person).


Wheat sprouts and rosemary flowers

rosemary flowers
wheat sprouts


Store 4-5 wheat sprouts and 2-3 rosemary flowers in small metal tins in the walk-in. Remove just before serving and assemble.


Finishing and presentation

Heat the clarified stock and place 30 g onto a deep, smooth plate; leave to set in the walk-in. For the presentation, remove the plate from the walk-in to warm slightly for 1-2 minutes. Place the freshly roasted dove, a quenelle of dove mousse and the mushroom and chestnut slices onto the plate. Dress with 5 g of vinegar and decorate with sprouts and flowers.