Aux Lyonnais

David Rathgeber
David Rathgeber
Country: France
City: 75002 París
Address: 32, rue Saint Marc
(+33) 0142966504
Closed: Midday Saturdays; Sundays and Mondays
Price: 40/60 €
Tasting menu:: 28 €

  • Pato con olivas
  • Pato con olivas
  • Soufflé con queso Vieux Comté
  • Soufflé con queso Vieux Comté

A journey back in time to the French gastronomy of a century ago. Designed in 1890, it preserves all of the flavor of the period. A genuine bistro where, under the supervision of Alain Ducasse, David Rathgeber serves traditional dishes with mastery and savoir-faire, words that distinguish the figure’s and the country’s character. And they achieve it in an authentic way, without pretense—they have only one aspiration, which they amply fulfill : to satisfy. They provide pleasure, history, professionalism, simplicity… and at prices so reasonable that they have succeeded in placing the establishment on the agenda of thousands of foreign tourist aficionados who welcome such an authentic experience.

Upon trying the soufflé Williamine with pear sorbet, one cannot but admire the technique and refinement behind the cuisine—bravo! A conclusion at which Martin Berasategui had already arrived—he was the one who recommended the restaurant with the following words: “you’ll eat the best leg of lamb you could possibly imagine.” The great chef from Lasarte is right, so very right—to the point where even those who shun gigot d’agneau will concede that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And David has a miraculous touch: it is buttery, juicy, pink, immaculate, flavorful, and with the added plus of some potatoes a l’onion that help to turn us into gluttons.

The hits do not end there: what better blood sausages can one eat in Paris than those offered here with stewed peas and carrots? In the starters, there are a lot to choose from: for the gourmand, the enticing, generous plate of cold charcuterie Lyonnaise—sausages, cervela and pork rinds—with potatoes and cheese, herbs and croutons; or for the health-conscious, a delicate and chromatic pea soup; and midway between rich and light, an orthodox crawfish bisque with quenelle.

The seasonal vegetable stew boasts naturalness and respect for the ingredients. The asparagus with morels and oeufs Mollet are yet another affirmation of French classicism. The Saint-Marcellin cheese has been painstakingly selected. And the contemporary version of vacherin has its charms.

One cannot ask for more, given the atmosphere, the food, and the prices. A small museum in which to enjoy an unforgettable reunion with the past.