Madoninna del Pescatore

Moreno Cedroni
Moreno Cedroni
Country: Italy
City: 60017 Senigallia – Marzocca (AN)
Address: Lungomare Italia, 11. 5 km al sur
(+39) 071698267
Closed: Sunday nights (except in the summer)
Price: 60/120 €
Tasting menu:: 60/80/120 €

  • Tortellini de parmesano con carne cruda
  • Tortellini de parmesano con carne cruda
  • Solomillo ibérico de pata negra con hinojos crujientes
  • Solomillo ibérico de pata negra con hinojos crujientes

Moreno Cedroni is one is the greatest ambassadors of modern Italian cuisine.
His talent manifests itself in different ways, not only expressed through cuisine, but as an excellent personal communicator as well, with a very natural charm. In his work he unveils himself like few professionals do, with a pleasant, discreet style, putting his principles in action at the important international events where chefs interpret both each other and their creations.

Madonnina del Pescatore is a bit like a mirror of his soul, as well as that of his wife Mariella.
The establishment itself almost looks more like a beauty salon than a restaurant, an impression that is further contributed to by the Armani-style staff jackets that are worn here. The attention, friendliness and professionalism of the service are incomparable.

The menu offers proposals that alternate between distinct culinary lines in order to satisfy the demands of the varied clientele.

All the dishes are in chronological order and, through this “census”, one gets a notion of Moreno’s trajectory over the years.
One of the characteristics that astonished us from the beginning was his personal capacity to synthesize the cuisine of this Italian region of Le Marche. Traditionally, the sea is an obvious protagonist in the food, though there are also influences from the interior of the region, with mountainous products that are often served at restaurants only just a few miles in from the sea.
To this initial combination, he mixed elements of what might be called the Copernican culinary revolution after his time spent years ago with Ferran Adrià.
Now having survived the mandatory presidency of the Italian J.R.E. (Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe), Moreno can now develop his art in a more calm setting. It seems to us that he has struck an extraordinary balance with the diverse characteristics cited previously.

The tasting menu consists of around 20 tapas, or a little more, with transitions that are always enjoyable and a constant source of pleasure.

To keep things short, let us describe a few of the more memorable moments of what turned out to be a marvelously fluid sequence of dishes.
We were presented with an original seafood salad with lemon “air” as well a surprising dish of seared scallops with potato puree. Thanks to the technique used, the shellfish provide a sensation in the mouth almost like that of beef marrow.
The “pota” with cabbage, chestnuts and fondue reproduces this surf and turf tradition of Le Marche. The same can be said of the lentil stew with pancetta-wrapped lobster, a dish that has been on the menu for almost ten years now.
The parmesan tortellini with raw Kobe beef, basil and tomato was an extraordinary play on textures and temperatures. This playfulness was repeated once more in the turbot with artichokes and foie gras. “Chewing” the iberian pork filet with crispy fennel was a more than interesting experience.

We could continue to list half the menu here, but we will restrict ourselves to two that deserve a special mention.
Among the cheeses offered, the tomme with strawberry and lemon-thyme is an authentic bonbon – nothing more, nothing less – to the point that it is actually prepared by the pastry chef. The chocolate with sea urchin and tangerine oil was interesting as well.
Logic begs the question about how one could possibly pair chocolate with sea urchins, but the answer lies in the long finish of the delicious fruity oil.

The wine selection has everything one could possibly hope for. Speaking of wines, it is very instructive, not to mention fun, to have a Bacchanal tour of the wineries of the Le Marche region – an area with intriguing native grapes and viticulturists to whom recent trends and times seem to not have affected.

In short, a gastronomic stop filled with pleasure that gently rocks you back and forth with its 360 degree views; a small universe in which time doesn’t exist and where you could spend a few hours even forgetting to watch the waves lap up on the shore, just in front of you, only a few meters down from your table.