Joan Roca’s creative capacity never ceases to amaze us. In 2004 we have tried about thirty new dishes, almost all of which are masterful. The most stunning one—for its spectacular aesthetic, its sheer craziness and its harmoniously confrontational flavors—is the grilled cep ice cream. Genius. We repeat, genius.
It is a salty mushroom ice cream topped with a half bell made of colorless caramel (similar in appearance to a blown glass ball); it is translucent and very crunchy, with fragrances deposited inside that are imperceptible to the eye but captivating to the olfactory—the...
