The clientele defines it well: young, wealthy Americans (and some not so young) who come here to be amazed by spectacle cuisine. Homaro Cantu sees it very clearly and will therefore most likely succeed: all the dishes constitute a death-defying maneuver that brings on the applause of the guests. It is true, however, that he is up there without a safety net. Time and again the proposals are surging with intention and their grace, be it greater or lesser, that’s arguable–subjective–but the grace… Nothing comes out common and orthodox.
There are no select products or mental clarity or immaculate flavors… this is not a fully mature intellectual cuisine, that much is clear. Nonetheless, everything has originality to it, an obsessive nature, awakening curiosity… and producing satisfaction. How much? In general, enough. The intention is always above the achievement.
Two menus are offered, of 10 and 20 dishes. The first, given to the diversity of the compositions, seems to us to be sufficiently complex and copious. The starter is a good demonstration: edible parchment of potato, cheese, garlic… pressed with squid ink that lifts the rest of the ingredients. Later the risotto arrived, inflated with parmigiano-reggiano cream, small balls of peas transformed with liquid nitrogen and a piece of juicy grilled fish that convinces in the end for its tasty result. The “breakfast” was very experimental: three spaces with punch-lines that no one sees coming, reminiscent of scrambled eggs with citrus, a shrimp sausage and… I have no idea what else. Another perspective on onion soup: the broth is served on one side, the onion confit on another, the crispy grated cheese somewhere beyond. The chicken was memorable, an impeccable medallion and delicious perfumed rillettes over julienned celery, accompanied by a remarkably refined celeriac puree and a fiery chili paper, made using the same technique as the parchment. More of the show in its tasty form with the Cuban cigar: chopped pork wrapped in cabbage with sesame ash. Abundance is another characteristic of the house, there is no doubt: beef lasagna with cheese. Promiscuity has another provocative and semi-orgasmic scene: duck tube spiced with yoghurt and perfumed red berries. And so the night continued until the dawn, and one is left with nothing else but to remark “What an orgy last night!”.
A unique experience recommended for those who are initiated in the gastronomic adventure.
