Risotto a las trufas

Three Thierry Marx dishes deserve a place in this category of great culinary creations. The pressed smoked eel “land and estuary” with acidulated apple and cereal toast, inspired by the well-known terrine of foie gras made famous by Martín Berasategui; the mi-cuit tomato with caviar, oysters and gelatinized oyster cream, reminding us of the “millefeuilles” that Joel Robuchon made with the same vegetable, even if the rest of the ingredients have nothing to do with it—among other reasons, because those tomatoes were alternated with spider crab; and this one that looks like a tribut...