Gatell is like an old song that, no matter how long it’s been since you last heard it, it continues to fascinate, beyond the gastro-sentimental arena, for its strange perfection, for its timeless Mediterranean refrain… knowing all the while that this passion is not easy amidst so much novelty in the field, but Gatell is one of those immutable laws in cuisine (so few are left these days) who play in another dimension, in a different league, whose rules are self-explanatory only with a demand that neither time nor space are willing to make.
