7,5

El Cenador de Salvador

Salvador Gallego
Salvador Gallego
Country: Spain
City: 28411 Moralzarzal (Madrid)
Address: Avda. de España, 30
mapa
(+34) 918577722
Closed: Sunday nights, Mondays and Tuesdays midday and from the 7th to the 30th of January, except for weekends.
Price: 75/90 €
Tasting menu:: 72 y 85 €


  • Pularda de Bresse con berza y hongos
  • Pularda de Bresse con berza y hongos
  • Cochinillo confitado en aceite picual
  • Cochinillo confitado en aceite picual

This is a cuisine capable of satisfying the most demanding palates, very diverse in its preferences, with the common denominator of good taste. This could be a good definition of what Salvador Gallego practices in his restaurant and what he teaches to the already numerous students that pass through the doors of his ever more accredited Culinary School: the “chef” sits atop the throne, above all, as an example. And to eat at ‘El Cenador de Salvador’ is generally a sensory celebration.

The hors d’oeuvres include the holy marinated sardine with roasted vegetables and an absolutely airy cream of white asparagus with a colorful pistachio powder. The menu offers what could be considered different styles of cuisine, middle-class dishes, even aristocratic, that coexist perfectly with courtly proposals that bear a slight touch of “canaille”. Thus, a soft-shell crab tempura, excellent, together with a traditional ajoblanco with peeled, seeded grapes, perfect; slices of white tuna belly crowned with Beluga and placed over violet potatoes, next to an explosion of flavor which is the free range eggs over chanterelle risotto; the ‘gondola’ of Norway lobster over panettone and tomato spiced with curry, a dance of magnificent flavors and textures, together with spectacular Tolosa beans with cabbage, blood sausage and pork fat… It so happens that these dishes of more popular appeal are treated by Salvador Gallego with the same attention, dedication and care as others of a theoretically more demanding culinary status. The fish, particularly the sea bass or grouper, are perfectly prepared, and the meats are astonishing. And the dichotomy continues: there are the regional meats with spiced eggplant and pumpkin bonbon but there is also, when in season, stewed turtledove with mojete murciano (tomato, onion, tuna, lives), stuffed with its livers and pine tree porcini…

The desserts also score high, and for cheese lovers there is an ample, intelligent selection with more attention paid to quality rather than quantity. Finally, the service, directed by Margarita Gallego, is highly satisfactory.