6,5

El Rincón de la Merced

Agustí Gebellí
Agustí Gebellí
Country: Spain
City: 09001 Burgos
Address: La Merced, 13.
mapa
(+34) 947479900
Closed: Sunday nights.
Price: 50/70 €
Tasting menu:: 45 €


  • Merluza con navajas
  • Merluza con navajas
  • Cabrito asado en cenizas de romero
  • Cabrito asado en cenizas de romero

A restaurant under the direction of Enrique Martínez of the Grupo Maher Restauración, which also manages La Ontina in Zaragoza as well as the chief establishment of the company, Maher, in Cintruénigo, all of which are notable restaurants in this guide. They are typically distinguished by their creative, modern haute cuisine, reproducing historic flavors with great succulence. They maintain a symbiosis between the cultish and the popular, between yesterday and tomorrow, between the familiar and the unexpected, connecting all palates along the way. In short, it is noble cuisine that touches the heart and seduces the palate.
Behind the rings is Agustí Gebellí, a young, intelligent, disciplined, meticulous, pragmatic and effective chef whose greatest asset is perhaps his ability to convince. He has settled comfortably into the menu here, where one can already find an ample list of great dishes as well as constant additions that are distinguished by their remarkable maturity. Among the starters, two dishes stood out that were created in celebration of the emblematic gastronomic product of Burgos: morcilla (blood sausage). First, the morcilla ravioli with acidic apple puree, roast potato and vanilla sauce, served cleanly over a superb slice of morcilla; one of the best dishes using this product found anywhere in Spain. Second, in a similarly idiosyncratic, gourmand tone, the migas de pastor (a traditional, regional dish using bread crumbs as the base), lightly impregnated with aromas of morcilla and chistorra (pork sausage), presented with the refreshing charm of a muscatel frost.
Another testimony to the style – a modern culinary recreation of a regional dish – is found in the Castilian soup with roast peppers and bread crumbs: refined, lightened, but still preserving the essence of tradition. Fine technique is always appreciated in the formulas here. Some dishes are more daring, others more complex, such as the shoulder of kid from Sierra de la Demanda, roasted with rosemary wood – a true delicacy. Other dishes to consider: boiled, sautéed octopus with Iberian pork cheek, roast potatoes, ajada (similar to gazpacho, made with bread crumbs) and a broth made from the cephalopod; the hake with borage, razor-shell clams and citrus air and the cod ajoarriero with shrimp and egg. And, of course, the caramelized bread pudding with nuts and Greek yoghurt. In short, they seem to be constantly improving.