7,5

La Réserve de Nice

Jouni Tormanen
Jouni Tormanen
Country: France
City: 06000 Niza
Address: 60, boulevard Franck Pilatte
mapa
(+33) 0497081480
Closed: Sunday, Monday, August and Christmastime
Price: 90/120 €
Tasting menu:: 90 €


  • Calamares con ensalada
  • Calamares con ensalada
  • Cigalas con naranja y esparragos
  • Cigalas con naranja y esparragos

Perched atop the Mediterranean, this establishment offers incomparable views of Nice and its coastline. Since its inauguration in the beginning of March 2007, it has been crammed with people, both the gastronomic restaurant and the bistro downstairs, where one can eat amazingly well in relationship to the cost. There is also a phenomenal bar here where they serve impressive cocktails. It has become the most fashionable establishment in the city, with a very diverse crowd.
The cuisine is well thought-out to please any type of palate. Supported by magnificent product, the stellar ingredients are subject to impeccable cooking times, with refined, academic complements. The hors d’oeuvre is a good way to start: cream of petits pois, sweet and refined, with pepper and thyme served with croutons – a perfect expression of the vegetable with magical touches of the cited aromas. In a similar fashion, the Gragnano pasta, select and very well executed, al dente, served with black truffle, arugula and three versions of artichokes: stalks prepared with lemon and the hearts prepared boiled and fried; it left no room for discussion. Memorable for their pure flavor, consistency (tender and dignified in the mouth) the grilled calamari, lightly aromatized with garlic, served over a multicolored salad of fresh vegetables and aromatic herbs was an absolute blowout. Leaving no room for doubt, they are the finest specialty of the house. The Norway lobsters, beautiful, simply sautéed and presented with grilled green asparagus, orange confit and two sauces: a maltaise and another in which the fruit exultantly stood out. The fatty squab confirmed the great care with which the product is selected and the respect they have for the ingredients here; it is served in two very appropriate preparations: the breast, cooked in a cocotte, was deliciously red while the legs were confits, all served with simple, gratifying accompaniments: grilled gnocchi, peas, carrot, cabbage, etc. And the melted chocolate tart is of unsurpassable sapid and textural delicacy; it could be a little more sophisticated, but never more exquisite.
In short, this is real cuisine without grandiloquent mannerisms, focusing on what is most important and at all times demonstrating honesty, rigor, professionalism, savoir-faire… expressing the culture and sensitivity of two fine professionals, the young chef Jouni Tormanen and his associate, Giuseppe Serena, who had the talent to design this business that was born to succeed with great care and fine taste.