8,5

L'Arnsbourg

Jean-Georges Klein
Jean-Georges Klein
Country: France
City: 57230 Baerenthal
Address: 18 rue Untermuhlthal
mapa
(+33) 0387065085
Closed: Tuesdays, Wednesdays and two weeks in September and January
Price: 150/250 €
Tasting menu:: 135 €


  • Carpaccio de atún
  • Carpaccio de atún
  • Esferas de aceitunas con clorofila de algas
  • Esferas de aceitunas con clorofila de algas
  • Lubina
  • Lubina
  • Pichón
  • Pichón

There is no doubt that both this restaurant as well as the hotel that accompanies it offer the impact of a three-starred Michelin establishment. The Klein family, with Jean-Georges at the helm, make an arduous, superhuman effort, both in the staging of the experience as well as the behind the scenes organization, ensuring that everything functions at its maximum potential. The love they have for their work, their will, skirts the extreme, practicing one of the most advanced conceptual and technical cuisines in France. Any technique in the international limelight, spheres, gelatins, airs… the most recent tools and machines in the market… you will find them all here, conditioning the formulas included in the “Discovery Menu”, which offers new sapid combinations with very interesting contrasts. The proposals are superb, the resolutions – always methodical, always precise, yet, considering all the merits they deserve, and the clarity with which they work, there lacks a certain magic that this qualification demands. They stop just at the border, one small step away… a step that must be taken.
The carpaccio of red tuna marinated in fresh almonds, green curry gelatin cubes, apricot ice cream, crispy… is a natural dish, fresh, light, with nuances – colorful – that testifies to the intentions of the chef in each proposal and in the bold work he demands. The olive oil gnocchi soufflé with squid ink and seaweed chlorophyll boasts an astonishing mastery of the sphere technique and a commitment to the astonishing sapid originality, not to mention a galactic beauty not of this world. The sea bass filet, remarkably juicy (though served without the skin), bursting with flavor and diverse textures, is aromatized with mint oil and a creamy counterpoint of tonka bean puree. The lobster, precisely cooked, not at all overdone, immaculate and tender, is served together with a broth of barley pearls, inspired by risotto, with a foamy, aerated dressing of kefir. Anthological for the product quality and precise grilling, as well as the clarity of essence, the duck foie gras medallion adorned with Amaretto gelatin, coffee biscuit and plum stone mousse. The squab breast stands out for its succulence – tender and juicy… a true delicacy – with stimulating and effective complements: reduction from the juices of the bird, a corn puree and a beet cake. The carrot-cardamom cappuccino, as well as other desserts, surprises the guest, being very much in consonance with the general philosophy of Jean-Georges Klein.
In short, an impressive cuisine, extraordinarily laborious, clearly professional, that looks to the future with the intention of marking a difference at every moment. One must experience the idealism and strength of this universally acclaimed chef.