Les Magnolias

Jean Chauvel is an enthusiastic young man who makes jubilant dishes in which one can savor passion. Each recipe comprises a titanic effort, intellectual as well as in execution, as a myriad of elements are present on the plate. Charged, even excessive formulas that require the complicity of the diner, who feels obliged to make an enormous effort not to lose himself in the sheer amount of content provided. And to make things more difficult, the seasonings are imaginative, overflowing, with new combinations that are brilliant in many cases, though never outlandish, and presented in marvelous devices: a glass tube ending in a spoon, through which the liquefied green apple flows; this has two functions, dish and utensil. A glass with an incorporated glass spiral that serves as a straw to drink a mixture of beer and lemon. Shot glasses and dishes with spectacular designs… you have to see it to believe it. There are evidently ideas, originality, fantasy…not strident in the least, an expression of the chef’s innate talents. These are also poetically expressed in the titles of dishes: Mexican aligot of veal and vagabond spiced tomato chapeau with olive oil, garbure of duck and a utopian vision of the “fufu” sausage—brilliant! And a pastoral scene of a barely cooked salmon with ginger and an optical illusion of pods… All of this would be simply fireworks if the chef did not have impressive technique that allows him to achieve impeccable donenesses and all types of textures—light, foamy, spongy, gelatinous, crunchy…a tactile orgy. As well as if he did not also have an innate sense of good taste with which to minutely balance quantity and quality flavor, producing extraordinarily refined results with character.

This cuisine does need to mature, above all in putting together the dishes, which should more concretely transmit the message—more words, or more sophisticated ones, do not necessarily provide more content or clearer expression. He also needs to polish his flavors—they should come naturally, in sapid immaculateness, which would benefit from greater definition in his articulations. The day that Chauvel, very young, makes a structural change to his cuisine to seek modernity in simplicity, purity, in the clairvoyance of the approach more than in the excess of components—when this occurs, and it will, he will become one of the greatest chefs in France. His career is brilliant, his artistic vocation uncontainable. On his menu, there is not one concession to the clientele. He works with feeling, generously giving his all in every occasion.

Another way to look at terrine: panel of foie gras with apple water. Another way to think of carpaccio: the monkfish and mussel chimera, brutally wedged with sorrel and vibrant mustard ice cream strips. Another way to make squid and octopus: the irresistible desire of an octopus lucuma, toned down by a delicious false tripe reef with accolades of squid. Another way to look at churros: nostalgic and served warm with sour fruit marmalade and vanilla ice cream. A menu that changes with the mental agility of one who expresses uncontainable personality, spark and talent.
os extraordinariamente refinados y con carácter.

Seguramente a esta cocina le falta madurar, sobre todo a la hora de construir los platos, que deberían concretar más el mensaje. No por más palabras, ni por más sofisticadas, se gana en contenido ni se expresa mejor. Seguramente también le falta pulirse en la proyección de los sabores, que han de incidir en la naturalidad, en la inmaculabilidad sápida, de la que se beneficiaría una mayor concreción en las articulaciones. El día que Chauvel – muy joven – dé un cambio estructural a su cocina, que debe buscar la modernidad en la sencillez, en la pureza, en la clarividencia del planteamiento más que en la desmesura de componentes, cuando eso llegue, y llegará, estaremos ante uno de los primeros cocineros de Francia. Su carrera es fulgurante y su vocación artística incontenible. En su carta no hay ni una sola concesión a la clientela. Se oficia con sentimiento y dando lo mejor de sí, generosamente, en cada ocasión.

Otra manera de ver la terrina: remo de foie gras con agua de manzana. Otra manera de ver el carpaccio: la quimera de rape y mejillones brutalmente acunada con acederas y vibrantes bastones de helado de mostaza. Otra manera de hacer el calamar y el pulpo: irresistible deseo de una lúcuma de pulpo apaciguada por el delicioso arrecife de una falsa tripa con elogios de calamares. Otra manera de ver los churros: nostálgicos y servidos tibios con mermelada de agrios y crema helada de vainilla. Carta que cambia con la agilidad mental de quien expresa incontenible personalidad, chispa y talento.