Vintage 1997

“Vintage 1997 is a sure bet: you’re never disappointed”, confirms Ferran Adrià who, when passing through Turin with enough free time on his hands, always comes to this restaurant to be pampered. He’s not wrong: in less than ten years the establishment of Umberto Chiodi Latini (in the dining room) and Pier Luigi Consonni (in the kitchen) has become a culinary institution of the city. Professionals, politicians, gourmets and gourmands alike flock to this “luxurious” abode.

The strong point of Vintage 1997 is the raw product used here which the two owners began carefully selecting themselves over the last few years. The gallina bionda of Villanova, the lightly smoked wild salmon, the Varzi and Felino sausage, the Laghirano ham, the Tropea onions, the Castelluccio lentils, the culatello di Zibello, the Sanremo prawns, the excellent fassone beef, the fabulous cheeses: Gorgonzola Paltrinieri, Nostrale dell'Elva, Bettelmatt Alpe Forno, cave-cured Gruyère and Emmental, pastoral alpine Fontina, Robiola de Murazzano… The

To begin with, Umberto, the erudite and passionate owner of the house, proposes a selection of raw, bare products: a superb Parmigiano delle Vacche Rosse, attractive slices of Cinta Senese pork fat and a sumptuous Mora Romagnola ham cured for 3 years. After a gluttonous tasting of anchovies in green sauce placed over slices of Entracque potato with mountain butter, we move on to a house classic: the pasta. This house makes it like no other in the city, both for the intrinsic quality of the products as well as the precision with which it is prepared, always finished with an impeccable texture. Also for the variety of accompaniments, with popular, emblematic Italian formulas prevailing. It is difficult to surpass the small macaroni with tomato and basil, where the sauce, beautiful, and the perfumes dress the egg-less fresh pasta to a perfect level. The spaghetti with extra virgin olive oil – Umberto is a doctor of material, with a custom of offering a tasting of the finest labels in the country – with chips of raw mushrooms represents the exaltation of basic aromas. The penne di farro of the prestigious Latini house with red mullet filets, one natural, the other breaded coated with pesto, along with the juices of the same fish, broad beans and zucchini slices constitutes one of the most sophisticated proposals of the restaurant, without detracting any delicacy or purity from the main ingredient. On a more indulgent tip, the spaghetti impregnated with tomato sauce, enriched with noble slices of Cinta Senese cheeks, lightly heated with a red onion julienne personifies an utterly gratifying option. As a complement to certain recipes, dishes that must serve as the nucleus to any feast here, two other truly unforgettable moments were had: the Carnaroli risotto with hops, nettles and saffron pistils, over which, at the last moment, a crown of foie gras carpaccio is placed alongside roast kid – succulently buttery.
To be enjoyed with childlike enthusiasm.