Nerua

A brand new and trend-breaking, minimalist and artistic restaurant that looks out onto the side of the Guggenheim Museum that faces the Nervion river. A five-star restaurant. We’ll see whether the Michelin Guide gives one to this cuisine it doesn’t manage to understand. May the car park –parking the car has always been a problem here– help make the sun shine in this Antequera area.
Let’s repeat it for the umpteenth time: Josean Martínez Alija is a real GENIUS. This is the man’s very main characteristic. His cuisine differs significantly from all the actual styles and trends. Two lines stand out: minimalism/essentiality in the constructions, which he has been cultivating for a long time despite his young age (he has always been a child prodigy); and passion for vegetables, that he transmits through green dishes which burst out with nature and naturality. Last year’s innovation is the development of a product chosen by the cook on which different tastes and consistencies are applied through multiple technical treatments. The chef has also many other qualities, of course, of which we emphasize the three following: his natural talent enriched by his amazing erudition, that lead to immaculate tastes; the dietetic aspect of his dishes; and his capacity to marvel both the palate and the eyes with simple and aesthetic arrangements. And what can we say about his humility, sensibility, consistency and happiness. 

It is the first time the menu displays the work of the last few years and tends to get a human dimension, with less ground-breaking proposals. The baby tomatoes stuffed with basil juice, some of which have been delicately smoked, swimming into a capers consommé, are really amazing and exquisite. Aubergines are omnipresent, whether in the form of the famous aubergine threads with liquorice adorned over a vintage olive oil yoghurt or of the grilled fleshy root with farmhouse loaf soaked into sea stock and red wine. Another recipe you can find in the Great Dishes of the website is the one of the incredible warm baby peas served with egg yolk, onion and vanilla. A fourth dish that also appears in the same section is the casarecce pasta, pertinently cooked, soaked into a gelatinous juice made of sea urchins, eucalyptus and hot pepper; a revolutionary way to see pasta –which really tastes like pasta–, with the sauce that stays apart. Fifth dish that can be seen in the Great Dishes section: charcoaled cod cube served with a rustic bread soup with acid and spicy hints. And a sixth dish that is not on the website because we were mistaken, because this was the first masterpiece of the artist, although slightly changed: charcoaled foie gras with carrot and liquorice stick; one of the best foie gras in the world.
Josean Martínez Alija promised us other perfect dishes, according to the season, such as the vegetal foie gras (avocado); the red and white chicory, proposed raw, cooked at low temperature and crystallized together with walnut and citrus fruit; the anchovies served with pepper leaves and earth seaweed; among other delights.
Here are the last proposals of the chef, completely in line with his philosophy. The 30-month-old Parmesan tea with black truffle veil, crunchy bread and green sisho is synonymous with clairvoyant refinement and lightening of a cold truffle and cheese cream. The baby artichokes cooked with tarragon, their crunchy petals and Iberian pork threads have nothing to do with artichoke and ham, although they might have a remote influence of it; neat and amazing, as usual. The cod cheeks –excellent quality and doneness– are magnified with a parsley tea that is far above the typical green sauce and accompanied with some slices of turnip. The crabs over bread soaked with their juice are another example of possibilism, of how to get haute cuisine to people. Just like the cow entrecote, roasted with pear lacquered with soy, frankly honourable, treated with divine technique.
And what can we say about the desserts, always dazzling and brilliant, such as the strawberries with whipped fresh milk casein, crunchy violet and coconut ice cream.
Needless to say that the feast is financially supported by the Museum, because for €70, it is impossible to find any superior tasting menu. Excellence will need some more proposals.