Joachim Koerper
Joachim Koerper
Country: Portugal
City: 1070 Lisboa
Address: Rua Marquês de Fronteira, Jardín Amália Rodrígues.
(+351) 3862211
Closed: Sundays and holidays
Price: 80/150 €
Tasting menu:: 85 €

  • Langostino en costra de patata con risotto de brotes de soja
  • Langostino en costra de patata con risotto de brotes de soja
  • Jarrete de ternera
  • Jarrete de ternera

This is the restaurant project of Joachim Koerper’s dreams. Inaugurated in November, 2004, under the initiative of eleven aficionados of fine gastronomy including the exclusive Quinta Das Lagrimas restaurant and hotel group who preside over some of the most reputable establishments in Lisbon, Coimbra and Oporto (they have set out to make this, one gathers, the flagship of their fleet – at the forefront of Portuguese dining establishments). Set in a privileged location over the Eduardo VII park inside a magnificent, modern and minimalist building dominated by stone, wood, steel and glass, the restaurant offers impressive views that look out over the unforgettable urban panorama of Tajo – a dreamlike vision that attracts millionaires and refined people from all over the world.
The cuisine is academic, erudite, technical, cosmopolitan, cultured… of inarguable professional worth. Refined dishes supported by noble products that boast accurate cooking times, reproducing universal flavors infused at times with what could be called essentially Portuguese characteristics. Classic structures, modern forms… it is a stately, dynamic cuisine with superb service and sensitivity – very much for a Relais&Châteaux clientele.
The foie gras terrine marmalade with incrusted fruit spice bread with chocolate couverture and port wine caramel reflects the dazzling style of the house: classically inspired culinary wisdom dressed up with flair in which exquisiteness is a constant. The cod petals are impeccable in their simplicity: immaculate, iridescent and juicy, they are served over potato rounds with crispy potato slices, a salad bouquet and a creamy aioli with pesto. The grouper confirms this sensibility with its superb quality and juiciness, served with snap peas and a subtle shellfish broth: an easy, effective construction that offers more carnal satisfaction than intellectual. A conceptual slip-up arrived with the following proposal in the tasting menu: what does a tiger prawn gain from being wrapped in phyllo dough? Nothing. It only loses its sapid and colorful transparence. It is served over an Asian risotto of coconut, curry and lemon grass which makes for an exotic experience that is more mouthwatering than mouthy. Recovering nicely in the next turn, the lamb carré – delicate, rose-colored meat with a bread crust of curry with panisse and an assortment of glazed vegetables – majestic conventionalism. The cava-raspberry ice cream, the orange crème-brulée with chocolate ice cream and the passion fruit soufflé with banana ice cream constitute a conscientious, precise labor with a referential and balanced style.
As for the rest, the impact of the house is manifest in all the facets of the experience.