La Table de Joël Robuchon

We have always been drawn to Joël Robuchon, a clairvoyant and methodical man who became the most perfect chef in the world. He made history with a never-surpassed archangelic virtuosity; for having developed his unmistakable style of circular preparations on the plate; for having given the world great recipes that have been expanded upon by hundreds of gourmet restaurants…and for so much more.
One day, he decided to free himself from the pressure of having to achieve a 9.75 table after table, something always expected of the master. After a time of reflection, of focusing on TV shows and writing books, on evaluations and consulting, etc., he returned two years ago to create something new: L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon (5, rue de Montalembert - 75007 Paris. Phone: 00.33.0142225656. €80-130.
Well into the spring of 2004, Joël took another step in his “prêt-à- porter” formula for haute cuisine. Inspired in L’Atelier, La Table, a contemporary upscale bistro, was born: a stylish and functional establishment that serves elaborate cuisine that is practical and compelling. What stands out above all is know-how: intelligence in the approach, great professionalism in the kitchen and in service, meticulous work… a Joël Robuchon organization. Rigor, wisdom and enough ambition to make this famous chef the world’s number one for a decade. From these establishments, he has developed a chain that brings them to major cities worldwide, each with its own identity.
An avant-garde appetizer, the foie gras royale with port reduction and Parmesan foam is intense in flavor and satiating, with fragile and ethereal textures—what contrast! A notable high point is the fresh foie gras cooked au torchon, which, like all of the other dishes, benefits from painstaking ingredient selection and impeccable technique, accompanied by this or that depending on the season, such as white peach compote and Szechuan pepper. The tuna, seared on the outside and bright red on the inside, crowned with a quenelle of goat cheese with an eggplant canneloni filled with its own cream and garnished with tomato, basil oil and Parmigiano Reggiano is a fresh, flawless option with clear Mediterranean inspiration. The egg in cocotte with light artichoke cream, cilantro gelatin and sliced smoked bacon is a tribute to flavor and creaminess. The crabs in a light broth from the same crustacean with pea and mint ravioli magnificently reproduce traditional flavors with refinement and levity.
Among the fish options are two well executed dishes that are sufficiently thought out and prepared: the super famous red mullet filets with olive oil and eggplant-cilantro caviar, and the St. Pierre, cooked in the pan with the light acidity of lime along with tomato, onion and basil.
The meats are masterful: the beef sweetbreads are tender and sybaritic, aromatized with laurel and served with a stuffed chard leaf; the buttery Pyrenees suckling lamb chops are exquisite with thyme flowers; and the duckling shows great character and contrast, served pink with apricots and seasonal mushrooms. Oh! And don’t forget another legendary dish: quail with caramelized foie gras and famed mash potatoes, in this case with truffles.
In short, a practical, urban and contemporary haute cuisine, with the seal and guarantee of the great Robuchon.