Vegetable foie gras (Avocado)

Vegetable foie gras (avocado)
Nerua
Cuisinier: Josean Martínez Alija
Pays: España
Localité: 48001 Bilbao (Vizcaya)
Adresse: Abandoibarra Etorbidea, 2
(+34) 944239333

Josean Martínez Alija is, by a large margin, the best chef of the vegetable kingdom. He excels in this category when he tackles it exclusively, and it is a terrain he visits regularly. Stellar creations include the cucumber-melon salad with mint, kefir and grapefruit aromas; Sahagún leek confit with pork juices and nutmeg; carrots and their juices over beets… and the glorious roasted eggplant threads with licorice and olive oil yoghurt, a formula that deserves to be included in the Artistic Dishes of the Year section, and with high honors. What has happened is that this chef, who has risen in the rankings this year to a 9.25, has received two awards in this category as well as the Patissier of the Year, which may seem to us excessive but certainly deserved.
In this recipe we find a brilliant testimony to artistic minimalism. A cut of avocado, the fattiest of all fruits, that emulates a piece of foie gras. The avocado is “steamed” in its own juices to 75ºC, preserving its body, consistency, meatiness, creaminess and immaculate flavor–this fruit has never been treated in such a natural, intelligent fashion. Raw and hot, or even lukewarm. It almost seems like vegetable version of Iberian ham, satiating with its flavors. Succulence both green and fatty, supported by a profound broth of baby squid with incredible aromas, acidulated and perfumed with cilantro that adds magic and nuances to something so humble yet exceptional. The most important avocado dish in history.



La Recette



Ingredients for 4 servings

Mussel broth

Ingredients:
3 shallots
125 g onions
A small amount of leek, thyme and celery stalk
125 g white wine
100 g water
1 kg mussels
Olive oil
Salt and pepper

Preparation:

Sweat the onion, shallot, green part of the leek, the thyme,
and celery stalk in a few drops of olive oil for 5 minutes. Add the white wine and cook for 5 minutes without giving it too much heat. Add the mussels and water, a few healthy turns
from the pepper grinder, cover the pot and leave to boil for three minutes. After
these three minutes, leave to sit covered for an additional three minutes.
Strain and reserve the liquid for the base of the broths and the mussels separately.

Baby Squid, in Gastrovac

Ingredients:

100 g julienned onions
500 g fresh baby squid without the ink
250 g mussel broth

Preparation:

In a pot, sweat the shallot, add the chopped baby squid, a dash of salt, sweat
for a few moments, add the mussel broth and pour this mixture in the Gastrovac. Cook at 50ºC.
Once the temperature is reached cook for 30 minutes. Next, pass through a
fine sieve and clarify with 1 egg white for every kilo of broth.

Baby squid, cilantro and lemon vinegar broth:

Ingredients:

300 g baby squid broth
8 g finely chopped cilantro leaves
15 g lemon vinegar

Preparation:

Boil the broth and add the chopped cilantro. Cover with plastic wrap once removed from heat
and leave to infuse for 5 minutes. Strain, add the lemon vinegar and pass through a cheesecloth if necessary. Salt to taste and serve. The broth infusion and the lemon vinegar should be done the day of service.

Conger eel fumet

Ingredients:
50 g extra virgin olive oil
100 g shallots chopped into thin rounds
150 g onion chopped into thin rounds
50 g green leeks in thin rounds
110 g mushrooms sliced into thin rounds
1 kg conger eel tails cut into 3 cm pieces
Clean well and cut into pieces to remove any trace of blood from the bones
8 g rock salt
50 g white wine
1.25 kg water
A bouquet garni comprised of leek (green part only) and parsley

Preparation:
1- Sweat the onion, mushrooms, shallots and leeks in olive oil
for 5 minutes. Once softened, add the fish pieces and bones. Increase the heat and sauté for another 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2- Season lightly. Add the wine and boil for 15 seconds to reduce the acidity. Add the water and the bouquet garni, comprised of leek (green part only) and parsley. Leave to boil for 20 minutes over low heat.
3- Remove from heat and leave to sit for 10 minutes.
45- Pass through a fine sieve and clarify if necessary. Move to a sous-vide bag and store in the walk-in if you are going to use it within the following 4 days. If not, move to a
sous-vide bag and freeze.

Avocado flower fumet

Ingredients:
500 g conger eel fumet
10 g avocado flowers (chopped without stems)

Preparation:
Bring the fumet to a boil in a pot. When it starts to boil add the chopped avocado flowers, remove from heat and cover. Leave to sit for 5 minutes and strain, pressing lightly. Store in the walk-in.

Avocado steamed with avocado flowers

Ingredients:
2 small avocados
500 g avocado flower fumet
Salt
Pepper
Nutmeg

Preparation:
Cut the avocado down the middle and remove the pit. Peel and season with salt, white pepper and nutmeg on both sides. Have the steamer ready with the fumet of avocado flower. Place the avocado halves in the steamer with the concave part face up. Cover and steam. Cook for 6 minutes after it begins to boil. Steam over low heat. When finished, take care to maintain the internal temperature between 75 and 80ºC.

Other ingredients
Añana salt
Cilantro flowers
Hazelnut oil

Finish:
Season with hazelnut oil, brushing the entire surface of the avocado, along with a dash of nutmeg. Arrange the grains of salt and cilantro flowers and serve carefully.
 



Lenguado a la Brasa con Sabores Mediterráneos

Lenguado a la Brasa con Sabores Mediterráneos
El Celler de Can Roca
Cuisinier: Joan Roca
Pays: España
Localité: 17007 Girona
Adresse: Ctra. Talaia, 40
(+34) 972222157

La capacidad creativa de los hermanos Roca, Joan, Jordi y Josep, todos suman, queda fuera de toda duda. Valgan como testimonio el número de Los Mejores Platos Artísticos conseguidos en los últimos años en la guía “Lo Mejor de la Gastronomía”. Con los de esta edición hacen ya once, cifra que tan sólo han superado Martín Berasategui y, cómo no, Ferran Adrià, “El Bulli”.
Este plato refleja a las mil maravillas la cocina de Joan en el último ejercicio, que le ha valido alzarse a lo más alto del ranking culinario mundial. Una propuesta perfecta reflexionada exhaustivamente y compensada en sus manifestaciones, tan complejas como sedosas. El lenguado, inmaculado sápida y táctilmente, con su consistencia, brilla por sus cualidades intrínsecas y por el tratamiento que se le dispensa, que respeta e incluso potencia su naturaleza y de qué manera. El ingrediente principal difícilmente puede estar mejor, contando con mínimos aderezos, por ejemplo bolitas de aceite de oliva, como si fuese un caviar, que inciden en el sabor sin mermar un ápice su pureza. Las salsas son un derroche de terciopelo con diferente cromatismo palatal. Dada la diversidad, puede escaparse la consideración de minimalismo, aunque no la de esencialidad. Cada lágrima de salsa reclama la complicidad del comensal, que pese al manual de instrucciones, comenzar por aquí y acabar por allá, da la posibilidad de jugar, primero aquélla, después vuelvo o me voy a... Todas rezuman exquisitez, sepan a piñones, bergamota, naranja, hinojo o a aceitunas negras. Tan variopintas sensaciones aparecen milimétricamente atemperadas e increíblemente armonizadas. Uno no da crédito a cómo se conjunta y acompasa tanto color.



La Recette



Para el lenguado
2 lenguados
Aceite de oliva

Elaboración
Limpiar y separar los lomos de las espinas. Sumergir los lomos en una solución de agua con un 10% de sal durante 5 minutos. Secar bien los lomos con un papel absorbente, juntarlos de dos en dos uniendo la carne que estaba en contacto con la espina. Envasar al vacío y sumergir en el Roner a 55 º C durante 4 minutos.
Abrir la bolsa, los lomos se habrán pegado entre sí quedando muy jugosos .En el momento de acabar el plato marcarlos en una parrilla de leña de encina.

Para la emulsión de aceituna manzanilla
250 g de aceituna manzanilla sin hueso
150 g de agua de las aceitunas
Aceite de oliva extra virgen de manzanilla

Elaboración
Triturar las aceitunas con su agua hasta obtener una textura lisa y homogénea, pasar el puré por un colador. Cuando la mezcla esté a temperatura ambiente colocarla en un bol, entonces iremos dejando caer un hilo de aceite a la vez que mezclamos con una varilla sin parar, a fin de que se emulsione hasta que se obtenga una textura parecida a la de la Mahonesa.

Para la emulsión de piñones
100 g de pasta pura de piñón
100 g de aceite de oliva extra virgen de Argodell
100 g de agua

Elaboración
Mezclar la pasta de piñón y el agua con la ayuda de una varilla. Disponer esta mezcla en un bol e ir dejando caer un hilo de aceite a la vez que mezclamos con una varilla sin parar, a fin de que se emulsione hasta que obtengamos una textura parecida a la de la Mahonesa.

Para la emulsión de naranja
500 g de zumo de naranja
50 g de glucosa
Aceite de oliva virgen extra de arbequina

Elaboración
En un cazo mezclar el zumo y la glucosa y reducirlo a fuego lento hasta tener un tercio del volumen inicial. Dejarlo temperar y cuando la mezcla esté a temperatura ambiente, colocarla en un bol y dejar caer un hilo de aceite a la vez que mezclamos con una varilla, sin parar, a fin de que se emulsione hasta que obtengamos una textura parecida a la de las demás salsas.

Para la emulsión de bergamota
150 g de agua
Raspadura de piel de 1 bergamota
150 g de jugo de bergamota
3g de agar-agar
Aceite de oliva extra virgen de arbequina

Elaboración
En un cazo hervir el agua junto con la raspadura de piel y el agar-agar, con una varilla removerlo sin parar hasta que empiece a hervir, añadir el jugo de bergamota al cazo, colarlo y reservarlo en frío hasta que solidifique.
Una vez frío y cuajado, triturarlo con un brazo robot hasta obtener una textura parecida a la de un gel, muy lisa y brillante. Colocarlo en un bol, dejando caer un hilo de aceite a la vez que mezclamos con una varilla, sin parar, a fin de que se emulsione hasta que obtengamos una textura parecida a la de las demás salsas.

Para la emulsión de hinojo
300 g de jugo licuado de hinojo
3 g de agar-agar
Aceite de oliva virgen extra de arbosana

Elaboración
En un cazo hervir el jugo junto al agar-agar y con una varilla removerlo sin parar hasta que empiece a hervir, entonces reservarlo en el frigorífico hasta que cuaje.
Una vez frío y cuajado, triturarlo con un brazo robot hasta obtener una textura parecida a la de un gel, muy liso y brillante. Colocarlo en un bol, dejando caer un hilo de aceite a la vez que mezclamos con una varilla, sin parar, a fin de que se emulsione hasta que obtengamos una textura parecida a las demás salsas.

Para los caramelos de azúcar isomalt
200 g de azúcar isomalt
Aceite de oliva dauro ( arbequina, Koroneiki, hojiblanca)

Elaboración
En un cazo pequeño calentar el azúcar en seco hasta que se funda. Una vez fundido, sumergir la punta de una boquilla a fin de crear una fina membrana; en este instante dejamos caer una pequeña cantidad de aceite de oliva desde una cuchara de café (para tener una referencia de cantidad) y el propio peso del aceite hará cerrar esta membrana y así tendremos un caramelo relleno de aceite, los podemos guardar sumergidos en aceite de oliva para resguardarlos de la humedad.

Acabado y montaje

En un plato rectangular colocar una lágrima de cada emulsión, por orden de abajo a arriba (principio-fin): hinojo, bergamota, naranja, piñón, aceituna. Colocar el lenguado perpendicular a las lágrimas y, sobre el lomo y por este orden: flor de hinojo, flor de ginesta, piel de naranja confitada, piñones crudos y el caramelo de aceite de oliva.
 



Char-grilled sole with mediterranean flavors

Char-grilled sole with mediterranean flavors
El Celler de Can Roca
Cuisinier: Joan Roca
Pays: España
Localité: 17007 Girona
Adresse: Ctra. Talaia, 40
(+34) 972222157

The combined creative capacity of the Roca brothers, Joan, Jordi and Josep, is undeniable. The sheer number of Best Artistic Dishes awarded by this guide in recent years suffices as a testimony. With those from this year’s edition they now count eleven, a number only surpassed by Martín Berasategui and, of course, Ferran Adrià.
This dish reflects the marvels of Joan’s cuisine in the most recent season, propelling him to the highest ranking in the culinary world. A perfect proposal, exhaustively reflected upon and balanced in its manifestations, as complex as it is silky. The sole, immaculate in texture and flavor, with a remarkable consistency, shines for its intrinsic qualities and for the preparation that is applied, respecting and even strengthening its natural character. The main ingredient could hardly be any better, minimally dressed, with small olive oil beads, as if they were caviar, which insist on the flavor yet detract nothing from its purity. The sauces constitute a velvety abundance with different palatal colors. Given the diversity, it is hard to consider it truly minimalist, though certainly within the category of essentialism. Each teardrop of the sauce demands complicity on the part of the guest which, thanks to the instruction manual, begins here or finish there, opens up possibilities for play, first this, then that, I’ll return here later or I’ll go over there now… All are exquisite: pine nuts, bergamot, orange, fennel and black olives. So many varied sensations appear precisely tempered and incredible harmonized. Credit is due for the manner in which the ensemble is constructed and the color they encompass.



La Recette



For the sole
2 soles
Olive oil

Preparation
Clean and separate the filets from the bones. Submerge the filets in a water solution with 10% salt for 5 minutes. Dry the filets well with absorbent paper, combine the filets, two by two, bringing together the meat side that was in contact with the spine. Move to a sous-vide bag and submerge in the Roner at 55ºC for 4 minutes.
Open the bag. The filets should have stuck together, making them very juicy. At service time brown them quickly over a wood-grill with holm oak.

For the Manzanilla olive emulsion
250 g pitted Manzanilla olives
150 g olive water
Manzanilla extra virgin olive oil

Preparation
Blend the olives with the water to obtain a smooth, uniform texture. Pass the puree through a sieve. When the mixture is at room temperature move it to a bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to mayonnaise.

For the pine nut emulsion
100 g pure pine nut paste
100 g Argodell extra virgin olive oil
100 g water

Preparation
Mix the pine nut paste and water using the mixer. Move the mixture to a bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to mayonnaise.

For the orange emulsion
500 g orange juice
50 g glucose
Arbequina extra virgin olive oil

Preparation
In a pot, mix the juice and glucose together and reduce the heat to low until reducing the mixture to a third of its initial volume. Leave to cool and when the mixture is at room temperature move it to a mixing bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to the other sauces.

For the bergamot emulsion
150 g water
Zest of 1 bergamot orange
150 g bergamot juice
3 g agar
Arbequina extra virgin olive oil

Preparation
In a pot, boil the water with the zest and agar, mixing constantly until it begins to boil. Add the bergamot juice, strain and refrigerate until it solidifies.
Once cold and coagulated, blend well with a Robot mixer to obtain a texture similar to a jelly, smooth and shiny. Move the mixture to a bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to the rest of the sauces.

For the fennel emulsion
300 g liquified fennel juice
3 g agar agar
Arbosana extra virgin olive oil

Preparation
In a pot, boil the juice with the agar, mixing constantly until it begins to boil. Refrigerate until it sets.
Once cold and coagulated, blend well with a Robot mixer to obtain a texture similar to a jelly, smooth and shiny. Move the mixture to a bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to the rest of the sauces.

For the Isomalt sugar caramels
200 g Isomalt sugar
Dauro olive oil (Arbequina, Koroneiki, Hojiblanca)

Preparation
In a small bowl, heat the sugar dry until it melts. Once melted, submerge the tip of a pastry bag stem in order to create a thin membrane. At this point, add a small amount of olive oil from a teaspoon (for a quantity reference) and the weight of the olive oil itself will close this membrane creating an oil-filled caramel. They can be kept submerged in olive oil to protect them from moisture.

Finishing and plating

On a rectangular plate, place a teardrop of each emulsion, starting at the bottom and moving up through the order (start-finish): fennel, bergamot, orange, pine nut, olive. Place the sole perpendicular to the teardrops and top the filets in this order: fennel flower, Spanish broom flowers, orange rind confit, raw pine nuts and the olive oil caramel.
 



Char-grilled sole with mediterranean flavors

Char-grilled sole with mediterranean flavors
El Celler de Can Roca
Cuisinier: Joan Roca
Pays: España
Localité: 17007 Girona
Adresse: Ctra. Talaia, 40
(+34) 972222157

The combined creative capacity of the Roca brothers, Joan, Jordi and Josep, is undeniable. The sheer number of Best Artistic Dishes awarded by this guide in recent years suffices as a testimony. With those from this year’s edition they now count eleven, a number only surpassed by Martín Berasategui and, of course, Ferran Adrià.
This dish reflects the marvels of Joan’s cuisine in the most recent season, propelling him to the highest ranking in the culinary world. A perfect proposal, exhaustively reflected upon and balanced in its manifestations, as complex as it is silky. The sole, immaculate in texture and flavor, with a remarkable consistency, shines for its intrinsic qualities and for the preparation that is applied, respecting and even strengthening its natural character. The main ingredient could hardly be any better, minimally dressed, with small olive oil beads, as if they were caviar, which insist on the flavor yet detract nothing from its purity. The sauces constitute a velvety abundance with different palatal colors. Given the diversity, it is hard to consider it truly minimalist, though certainly within the category of essentialism. Each teardrop of the sauce demands complicity on the part of the guest which, thanks to the instruction manual, begins here or finish there, opens up possibilities for play, first this, then that, I’ll return here later or I’ll go over there now… All are exquisite: pine nuts, bergamot, orange, fennel and black olives. So many varied sensations appear precisely tempered and incredible harmonized. Credit is due for the manner in which the ensemble is constructed and the color they encompass.



La Recette



For the sole
2 soles
Olive oil

Preparation
Clean and separate the filets from the bones. Submerge the filets in a water solution with 10% salt for 5 minutes. Dry the filets well with absorbent paper, combine the filets, two by two, bringing together the meat side that was in contact with the spine. Move to a sous-vide bag and submerge in the Roner at 55ºC for 4 minutes.
Open the bag. The filets should have stuck together, making them very juicy. At service time brown them quickly over a wood-grill with holm oak.

For the Manzanilla olive emulsion
250 g pitted Manzanilla olives
150 g olive water
Manzanilla extra virgin olive oil

Preparation
Blend the olives with the water to obtain a smooth, uniform texture. Pass the puree through a sieve. When the mixture is at room temperature move it to a bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to mayonnaise.

For the pine nut emulsion
100 g pure pine nut paste
100 g Argodell extra virgin olive oil
100 g water

Preparation
Mix the pine nut paste and water using the mixer. Move the mixture to a bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to mayonnaise.

For the orange emulsion
500 g orange juice
50 g glucose
Arbequina extra virgin olive oil

Preparation
In a pot, mix the juice and glucose together and reduce the heat to low until reducing the mixture to a third of its initial volume. Leave to cool and when the mixture is at room temperature move it to a mixing bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to the other sauces.

For the bergamot emulsion
150 g water
Zest of 1 bergamot orange
150 g bergamot juice
3 g agar
Arbequina extra virgin olive oil

Preparation
In a pot, boil the water with the zest and agar, mixing constantly until it begins to boil. Add the bergamot juice, strain and refrigerate until it solidifies.
Once cold and coagulated, blend well with a Robot mixer to obtain a texture similar to a jelly, smooth and shiny. Move the mixture to a bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to the rest of the sauces.

For the fennel emulsion
300 g liquified fennel juice
3 g agar agar
Arbosana extra virgin olive oil

Preparation
In a pot, boil the juice with the agar, mixing constantly until it begins to boil. Refrigerate until it sets.
Once cold and coagulated, blend well with a Robot mixer to obtain a texture similar to a jelly, smooth and shiny. Move the mixture to a bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to the rest of the sauces.

For the Isomalt sugar caramels
200 g Isomalt sugar
Dauro olive oil (Arbequina, Koroneiki, Hojiblanca)

Preparation
In a small bowl, heat the sugar dry until it melts. Once melted, submerge the tip of a pastry bag stem in order to create a thin membrane. At this point, add a small amount of olive oil from a teaspoon (for a quantity reference) and the weight of the olive oil itself will close this membrane creating an oil-filled caramel. They can be kept submerged in olive oil to protect them from moisture.

Finishing and plating

On a rectangular plate, place a teardrop of each emulsion, starting at the bottom and moving up through the order (start-finish): fennel, bergamot, orange, pine nut, olive. Place the sole perpendicular to the teardrops and top the filets in this order: fennel flower, Spanish broom flowers, orange rind confit, raw pine nuts and the olive oil caramel.
 



Char-grilled sole with mediterranean flavors

Char-grilled sole with mediterranean flavors
El Celler de Can Roca
Cuisinier: Joan Roca
Pays: España
Localité: 17007 Girona
Adresse: Ctra. Talaia, 40
(+34) 972222157

The combined creative capacity of the Roca brothers, Joan, Jordi and Josep, is undeniable. The sheer number of Best Artistic Dishes awarded by this guide in recent years suffices as a testimony. With those from this year’s edition they now count eleven, a number only surpassed by Martín Berasategui and, of course, Ferran Adrià.
This dish reflects the marvels of Joan’s cuisine in the most recent season, propelling him to the highest ranking in the culinary world. A perfect proposal, exhaustively reflected upon and balanced in its manifestations, as complex as it is silky. The sole, immaculate in texture and flavor, with a remarkable consistency, shines for its intrinsic qualities and for the preparation that is applied, respecting and even strengthening its natural character. The main ingredient could hardly be any better, minimally dressed, with small olive oil beads, as if they were caviar, which insist on the flavor yet detract nothing from its purity. The sauces constitute a velvety abundance with different palatal colors. Given the diversity, it is hard to consider it truly minimalist, though certainly within the category of essentialism. Each teardrop of the sauce demands complicity on the part of the guest which, thanks to the instruction manual, begins here or finish there, opens up possibilities for play, first this, then that, I’ll return here later or I’ll go over there now… All are exquisite: pine nuts, bergamot, orange, fennel and black olives. So many varied sensations appear precisely tempered and incredible harmonized. Credit is due for the manner in which the ensemble is constructed and the color they encompass.



La Recette



For the sole
2 soles
Olive oil

Preparation
Clean and separate the filets from the bones. Submerge the filets in a water solution with 10% salt for 5 minutes. Dry the filets well with absorbent paper, combine the filets, two by two, bringing together the meat side that was in contact with the spine. Move to a sous-vide bag and submerge in the Roner at 55ºC for 4 minutes.
Open the bag. The filets should have stuck together, making them very juicy. At service time brown them quickly over a wood-grill with holm oak.

For the Manzanilla olive emulsion
250 g pitted Manzanilla olives
150 g olive water
Manzanilla extra virgin olive oil

Preparation
Blend the olives with the water to obtain a smooth, uniform texture. Pass the puree through a sieve. When the mixture is at room temperature move it to a bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to mayonnaise.

For the pine nut emulsion
100 g pure pine nut paste
100 g Argodell extra virgin olive oil
100 g water

Preparation
Mix the pine nut paste and water using the mixer. Move the mixture to a bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to mayonnaise.

For the orange emulsion
500 g orange juice
50 g glucose
Arbequina extra virgin olive oil

Preparation
In a pot, mix the juice and glucose together and reduce the heat to low until reducing the mixture to a third of its initial volume. Leave to cool and when the mixture is at room temperature move it to a mixing bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to the other sauces.

For the bergamot emulsion
150 g water
Zest of 1 bergamot orange
150 g bergamot juice
3 g agar
Arbequina extra virgin olive oil

Preparation
In a pot, boil the water with the zest and agar, mixing constantly until it begins to boil. Add the bergamot juice, strain and refrigerate until it solidifies.
Once cold and coagulated, blend well with a Robot mixer to obtain a texture similar to a jelly, smooth and shiny. Move the mixture to a bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to the rest of the sauces.

For the fennel emulsion
300 g liquified fennel juice
3 g agar agar
Arbosana extra virgin olive oil

Preparation
In a pot, boil the juice with the agar, mixing constantly until it begins to boil. Refrigerate until it sets.
Once cold and coagulated, blend well with a Robot mixer to obtain a texture similar to a jelly, smooth and shiny. Move the mixture to a bowl. Mixing constantly, gradually add a ribbon of oil in the mixture until obtaining an emulsion with a texture similar to the rest of the sauces.

For the Isomalt sugar caramels
200 g Isomalt sugar
Dauro olive oil (Arbequina, Koroneiki, Hojiblanca)

Preparation
In a small bowl, heat the sugar dry until it melts. Once melted, submerge the tip of a pastry bag stem in order to create a thin membrane. At this point, add a small amount of olive oil from a teaspoon (for a quantity reference) and the weight of the olive oil itself will close this membrane creating an oil-filled caramel. They can be kept submerged in olive oil to protect them from moisture.

Finishing and plating

On a rectangular plate, place a teardrop of each emulsion, starting at the bottom and moving up through the order (start-finish): fennel, bergamot, orange, pine nut, olive. Place the sole perpendicular to the teardrops and top the filets in this order: fennel flower, Spanish broom flowers, orange rind confit, raw pine nuts and the olive oil caramel.
 



La Cocina en Grecia

La Cocina en Grecia

 Con el paso de los años, Grecia se ha convertido en uno de los países europeos más visitados turísticamente debido a su gran riqueza histórica, social y gastronómica.
La gastronomía de Grecia es un arte; su cultura es clásica y sus orígenes se remontan a 3000 años A.C., a una civilización cretense formada por mercaderes poderosos capaces de recorrer el Mediterráneo para comercializar sus productos en otros países.
La capital de Grecia es Atenas (ver foto 1), una ciudad cosmopolita donde se mezclan distintas culturas y gentes. En primer lugar, es obligada la visita a la acrópolis de Atenas: el Partenón y el Erectíon, erigido a la Diosa Atenea (la Diosa de la sabiduría) siendo el templo más sagrado de la antigüedad. A muy poca distancia, nos encontramos con el antiguo teatro Dionisos, el templo de Atenea-Niké, los propileos y el Odeón de Herodes. (Ver fotos 2 y 3)
Un aspecto muy característico del paisaje de Grecia es la extensión del cultivo de olivares, perfectamente alineados. A la hora de la recolección de aceituna, los griegos juegan con el momento óptimo de maduración de la aceituna, ya que dejan que madure más o menos, dependiendo del uso que le vayan a dar. Por ejemplo, si la aceituna es para aliñar, la cogen más bien verde. En cambio, si la aceituna es para aceite, la cogen más bien madura (lo que hace que le dé el color dorado al aceite). Las variedades de aceituna más predominantes en Grecia son la Kalamata, la Naphlion, la griega Grossa y la Koroneiki, variedad que hace que salga el aceite de un color verde intenso.
Además del olivo, se cultivan campos de tomates para la industria conservera (poseen 57 variedades distintas de tomate) al igual que otras muchas verduras y hortalizas, como la berenjena, el calabacín, el pimiento, la cebolla...
La base de la cocina griega es, sin lugar a dudas, cocina mediterránea: pescado, verduras, aceite de oliva, frutas, vino, cereales y queso feta.
Uno de los principales platos en Grecia es la ensalada griega con queso feta y la soúpa tou psará (sopa marinera).
Sin embargo en Grecia, al igual que en muchos países, hay especialidades gastronómicas de cada región. Mykonos es conocida por su loúses (carne de cerdo seca); Syros, por su Kolokythópita (pastel de calabacín); Kárpatos por su cordero relleno; Tesaloniki, por su Dolmathakia me rizi (hojas de parra rellenas con arroz); pero el plato típico griego por excelencia es la Melijanes Moussaka (musaka de berenjenas).
Grecia también es popular por sus vinos desde tiempos remotos. Podemos destacar el Asyrtikó (típico de Santorini) o el Xynomavro, del norte de Grecia. Pero el típico por excelencia es el Resina.
El café juega un papel fundamental en la vida de un griego. Suelen tomar un mínimo de tres cafés al día. El café griego es muy parecido al turco, se toma siempre en taza y se deja reposar unos minutos. Se bebe siempre acompañado de un vaso de agua helada, una tradición que hay en Grecia tanto con el café como con los aperitivos o mezzes, o con lo que pidas en ese momento. (Ver foto 4)
Es típico ver, por ejemplo, en Tessaloniki o Atenas cómo los ciudadanos salen por la tarde para tomar un aperitivo (mezze) equivalente aquí a las tapas. Otro aspecto característico de Grecia, sobre todo en las zonas rurales, es que cuando uno va a comer o a cenar a un restaurante, como norma general no hay carta, sino que el comensal entra directamente a la cocina y el cocinero le muestra en las marmitas o paelleras lo que tiene. Te hace sentir como en casa.
Si lo prefieres, también puedes salir al mercado: hay puestos a lo largo de toda la calle donde podemos encontrar todos los productos frescos del mar y montaña e incluso tú puedes elegir en ese momento el producto que quieres consumir y ellos te lo cocinan al momento.
Grecia, además cuenta con un amplio número de restaurantes gastronómicos. Yo tuve la suerte de visitar el Restaurante Alfredos, en Tesaloniky, donde su Chef de cocina, Sakis Kaliotcis, elaboró unos exquisitos platos mediterráneos, con los ingredientes típicos del país. (Ver fotos 5 y 6).
La vida en Grecia no es muy cara, incluso me atrevo a decir que es mas barata que en España, a excepción del café o de la cerveza. Un café en cualquier cafetería de Grecia te cuesta un mínimo de 3 euros y una cerveza 6 euros.
* Caridópita: Pastel típico griego, elaborado con harina, cacao, azúcar, yogur griego y nueces...
 

  • Foto 1. Vista panorámica de Atenas
  • Foto 1. Vista panorámica de Atenas
  • Foto 2. Detalle del Teatro
  • Foto 2. Detalle del Teatro
  • Foto 3. Cariatides
  • Foto 3. Cariatides
  • Foto 4. Café griego
  • Foto 4. Café griego
  • Foto 5. Mujol con verduras silvestres. Rest. Alfredos
  • Foto 5. Mujol con verduras silvestres. Rest. Alfredos
  • Foto 6. Caridópita*. Rest. Alfredos
  • Foto 6. Caridópita*. Rest. Alfredos


7

Santa Teresa Bull's Tail


Santa Teresa Bull's Tail
Yemas de Santa Teresa, S.A.

Pays: España
Localité: 28290 Las Rozas (Madrid)
Adresse: Chile, 10. Edif. Madrid 92
(+34) 916369260
Prix à la carte: Around € 15 for the 840 g. jar


Julián Gil has expanded his offer of products prepared with vegetables and traditional meat dishes, among which is necessary to mention the meatballs and this succulent bull’s tail creation that reminds us of our grandmother’s cuisine, captured with a great deal of professionalism. The first characteristic to jump out at you is the presence of attractive pieces of meat that demonstrate a fine cut and magnificent color. The flavor of the meat testifies to its nobility, subdued and impregnated with the sauce, polished and flavorful but without excess, guarding its natural qualities, mingling with the onion, leek, carrot, garlic, red wine, meat broth, corn flour, salt, pepper, cayenne and extra virgin olive oil. The texture is tender and gelatinous.

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7

Rabo de Toro Santa Teresa


Rabo de Toro Santa Teresa
Yemas de Santa Teresa, S.A.

Pays: España
Localité: 28290 Las Rozas (Madrid)
Adresse: Chile, 10. Edif. Madrid 92
(+34) 916369260
Prix à la carte: Sobre 15 €, el tarro de 840g.


Julián Gil ha extendido su oferta de productos elaborados a entradas vegetales y guisos tradicionales de carne, entre los que es menester destacar las albóndigas y este suculento rabo de vacuno que nos refresca la memoria de la cocina de la abuela, plasmada con profesionalidad. Destacar en primer lugar la presencia, con trozos atractivos, que muestran un buen corte y un magnífico color. El sabor de la carne atestigua nobleza, estando tenue y certeramente impregnada por la salsa, muy conseguida, gustosa sin exceso, que suma sin desnaturalizar, en la que intervienen cebolla, puerro, zanahoria, ajo, vino tinto, caldo de carne, harina de maíz, sal, pimienta, cayena y aceite de oliva virgen extra. Textura tierna y gelatinosa.

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Sardine skin with salted anchovy

Sardine skin with salted anchovy
Casa Marcial
Cuisinier: Nacho Manzano
Pays: España
Localité: 33549 Arriondas (Asturias)
Adresse: La Salgar, 10; 4 km. from the city center
(+34) 985840991

Nacho Manzano is one of the Spanish chefs with the greatest capacity for dictating a personal message, which, in general, has a thick Asturian accent. Who can blame him? He knows the goodness of the ingredients, the finest delicacies and products available from his region, and he stages them in current, relevant ways. Another virtue of the house is the mental clarity one senses here. He constructs with fluency, possessing an innate gift of good taste to convey refined, balanced flavors. All these qualities are given space in the following poem–an homage to the Bay of Biscay.
Surely there will be those who think it overly simple. Others, like ourselves, think that nothing is more difficult than to mark a difference with only two elements. If this feat is already highly complicated, the merit is further enriched by the fact that these two ingredients form such a fundamental part of Spanish gastronomic patrimony. Combining two fish and two traditions, superimposing them and achieving something so magnanimous is truly exceptional. In essence this is a salted anchovy covered with the skin of a sardine with a millimeter of its meat encrusted on top. The first brings the flavor, the second, fat and a gelatinous quality. Hot and cold. They complement each other in an idyllic way. Unsurpassable compatibility. The dish manages to honor both of the identities of the products individually. This is brilliant minimalism.



La Recette



Ingredients:
4 San Filippo salted anchovy filets
4 Sardines, preferably those that are fished from mid-July to mid-September.
Fuen Roble Picaul Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Preparation for the anchovies:
2 anchovies for a total of 4 filets. Clean the anchovies of the salt under a stream of cold water and dry well with a towel. Remove the central spine and all other bones from the head to the tail with tweezers.

Preparation for the sardines:
Separate the sardines into 4 filets, remove the meat leaving 1 millimeter attached to the skin.
Place the skins onto a tray covered with a baking sheet, top with another sheet and cook in the steam over for 4 minutes at 70ºC.

Finishing: 1 anchovy filet topped with the sardine skin and a few drops of olive oil.
 



Piel de Sardina con Anchoa en Salazón

Piel de Sardina con Anchoa en Salazón
Casa Marcial
Cuisinier: Nacho Manzano
Pays: España
Localité: 33549 Arriondas (Asturias)
Adresse: La Salgar, 10; 4 km. from the city center
(+34) 985840991

Nacho Manzano es uno de los cocineros españoles con mayor capacidad para dictar un mensaje personal, que, por lo general, tiene acento asturiano. Vamos, que conoce de la bondad, mejor, de la manjarosidad de los productos de su tierra, que pone en escena dándoles relevancia. Otra virtud de la que hace gala es la clarividencia mental. Construye con soltura y posee un don innato del buen gusto para transmitir sabores refinados y armónicos. Todas esas cualidades se dan cita en este poema, poema genial dedicado al Cantábrico.
Seguramente habrá a quien le parezca una simpleza. Otros pensamos que no existe nada más difícil que marcar la diferencia con tan sólo dos elementos. Si esto ya es harto complicado, se acrecenta el mérito si esos dos ingredientes forman parte del patrimonio gastronómico. Juntar dos pescados y dos tradiciones, superponerlos y lograr algo magnánimo, es algo excepcional. Aquí tenemos una anchoa en salazón recubierta de piel de sardina con un milímetro de sus carnes incrustadas. La primera aporta sabrosura y la segunda grasa y gelatinosidad. Frio y caliente. Se complementan idílicamente. Compatibiliza lo, a priori, inmejorable. No desmerece de las anchoas en salazón ni de las sardinas asadas. Repetimos, minimalismo genial.



La Recette



Ingredientes:
4 filetes de anchoa en salazón San Filippo
4 Sardinas de alba, las que se pescan de mediados de julio a mediados de septiembre
Aceite de oliva Virgen Extra Variedad Picual Fuen Roble
Elaboración para las anchoas:
2 anchoas, total 4 filetes. Limpiar las anchoas de la sal, bajo un chorrito de agua fría, secar muy bien con paños. Sobar de la parte de la cabeza hasta la cola, quitar la espina central y todas las otras con pinzas.
Elaboración de las sardinas: