Cracco

After only sharing the proprietary role at this restaurant for six years, Carlo Cracco assumed sole ownership in 2007. A very exciting, personal and incredible phase that takes us back to the beginning, to that jubilant period which brought us to confirm, only shortly after the opening of the restaurant, that Carlo was one of the finest chefs in Italy and that the grandeur of transalpine gastronomy had irreversibly evolved and blossomed, giving way to the triumph of creative cuisine–a process in which this chef was one of the most influential players.
So where exactly can signs of this new era and level be seen? Simply and clearly, in the brilliant spirit that is captured in each construction and the distinct personal identity that they all express. Seriously, these are clearly original ideas we’re seeing here. Like the minimalist appetizer: persimmon purée with crunchy seaweeds; delicacy, freshness, sweetness, fruitiness, contrasts and, of course, inventiveness. Like the lucid composition of cod tripe and juice with rabbit threads and salmon roe; a show of exquisiteness and of sapid and tactile combinations. Like the exciting salad of celery, radish, etc. cooked at low temperature with apple strips and anchovy juice; the daring route of the hot salads is going on. Like the unsuspected yolk surrounded by a cream with liquorice and sea urchin; the achievement of a new identity of the egg. Like the subtle phyllo dough, cooked and stuffed with seaweeds and ginger, served with marjoram and veal marrow; almost nothing. Like the vibrant lamb kidney with pepper purée, sweet and spicy mustard grains, broccoli flowers and coconut powder; very strong feelings. Like the rice starch presented with seafood and fish papers; a cerebral inversion of a marine risotto. And like the brilliant marrow with winkles over grinded sweet corn sprinkled with chocolate and coffee and accompanied with a touch of celery.

Only a half-dozen of the consecrated, stately formulas remain: the pluperfect risotto a la milanesa, made with saffron and grilled marrow; the still provocative and clairvoyant risotto with electrifying touches of anchovies, lemon and cocoa; the contrasting spaghetti with sea urchins and coffee; the amazing and magic crème brûlée with olive oil served with murex; the marinated egg yolk with mushroom soup and olives; the divine spit-roasted squab breast with cabbage, fruits and vegetables and colossal lamb kidney filets with sea urchins and white foam.
In short, fertile creativity in its finest form. A state of culinary grace.